I've spoken with a local drywall handyman to obtain an estimate of replacing the drywall on the ceilings of 11 rooms in my home. He suggested since the drywall was installed in 1978 and not very well, that I consider also replacing the top half of the drywall in all of the rooms.
The price he has quoted me was $16,000 (materials, labor). Is this a reasonable cost for this project?
I am assuming that your house is about 2,200 square feet, am I correct? Be aware that EPA as of April 22, 2010 remodelers includes drywall workers, working on residential homes, home daycare centers or any other "child-occupied facility" built before 1978 must be certified workers and must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination, and keep detailed records.
This new federal laws instituted by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) will require contractors who perform interior and exterior work on homes built before 1978 to be certified and follow specific work practices in order to prevent lead contamination. The EPA's new Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule (40 CFR 745) states that renovations conducted for compensation must be performed by "Certified Firms" using "Certified Renovators."
Anyway, so must about that law. Why does he (handyman) or they want to replace the top half of the drywall in all of the rooms?
Are they removing the ceiling drywall? If yes, you want to consider that the attic insulation will or may come down at the same time and that will need to be replaced.
As far as the price that was quoted to you at $16,000 (materials, labor). Is this a reasonable cost for this project? It depends on the scope of work.
Since you did not tell us the square footage of the job it is hard to tell if the price is fair or not.
So lets break it down this way. A 4'X8' sheet of drywall equals 32SF and you have 4000SF of area. Let's assume that one sheet costs $10.00 divided by 32SF you get $.31 per SF times 4,000SF equals $1,250.00 for sheetrock and your installer charges you $1.10 per SF to install it your cost would be $4,400.00. Texturing costs at the rate of $.75SF would cost you $3,000.00 for a total cost of $8,650.00 for a square foot cost of $2.16 per square foot.
If you have 4000SF and your quote is $16,000 your cost is $4.00 per SF.
DO THE FOLLOWING:
1. Be insured it was installed in 1978 or after.
2. If installed before 1978 this falls under the EPA Lead Repair Renovate & Paint Rule. Check it out and follow as outlined.
3. There are drywall installers on line that can give you an estimate in your area over the Internet.
4. $0.40/sqft tear out, $0.60/sqft install. Remember clean-up. Second floor or basement, etc add 20%.
5. Can it be covered over? This would be a plus especially if you use "Green Glue" - sound proofing.
6. Why top layer only?
7. Use screws.
Sorry, I should have provided my information. The total square footage of my home is 1985 sf. The reason for removing the top half of the dry wall in addition to the ceiling is because of the way the dry wall was installed. rather than cutting the sheets of drywall around windows and doors so that the drywall extended to the center of the windows and doors, it was cut in straight lines and then pieced in over the doors and windows. now that the house has settled, the drywall has cracked along the edges of the doors and windows. additionally, he's telling me the drywall (ceiling) butts up to the dry wall on the walls and that it will be easier, better finished product?
Sorry, I should have provided my information.
The total square footage of my home is 1985 sf. The reason for removing the top half of the dry wall in addition to the ceiling is because of the way the dry wall was installed. rather than cutting the sheets of drywall around windows and doors so that the drywall extended to the center of the windows and doors, it was cut in straight lines and then pieced in over the doors and windows.
now that the house has settled, the drywall has cracked along the edges of the doors and windows. additionally, he's telling me the drywall (ceiling) butts up to the dry wall on the walls and that it will be easier, better finished product?
House was built in 1978, so they fastened with drywall nails typically 5 per row and no glue. Get some local quoted, supply and install is $30.00 per board finished in most areas (1 4X8 board is 32 sq. ft.)
Materials: 1/2" GWB, 1 1/4 Screws, Glue, Tape and Spackle.
Call in a demo team to rip, clean and prep. Make sure they score (cut) the tape at corners with utility knife..this work can be done cheap, since your not hiring a trade, and should cost no more than $500.00 labor plus your carting costs.
Once ceiling is prepared and drywall is cleaned up, get bids from local Drywall companies, they will do it fast and cheap unlike your local handyman.
A less expensive solution is laminate right over whats there with 3/8" drywall, Glue and 1 1/2" drywall screws, we;ve renovated hundreds of Bank owned properties this way. It's cost efective, fast and twice as durable.
MJ Salese Construction
Thank you everyone for your input and insight.
I feel as though i have a basis to find and deal with a "new" prospective contractor. As an aside, the gentleman who gave me the quote assured me that he was competitive, that the $1000.00 per room cost above materials, was his cost for labor and hauling.
Sorry I'm new at this site after further reading I see what was wrote that is a very high price and a rip off I would get other estimates and go from there. Don't go with him he don't know how to price drywall half of that is more like it and still high.
With out seeing the job it is impossible to give an accurate quote.
None of the contractors responding to your question have taken into account molding or trim around windows & doors or working in a house that is being lived in. These factors would add 50 to 65% to drywall cost & don't forget a building permit. With out seeing job site condation this sounds like a fare price.
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