For thousands of years stone blocks have been the building materials of civilizations and, after all these years, many of these multi-millennium strictures still exist, from the highlands of Scotland through to pyramids of Egypt. The weight of the stone plus its ability to be carved and hold its shape was the reason for the longevity of these architectural marvels. Not only was stone strong and weather-proof it had a majestic beauty unequaled even compared to today's architectural designs.
During the Industrial Revolution of the 1700's and 1800's clay brick pushed stone aside as a building material and, a century later, concrete rose to dominance. As stonework was labor-intensive this way to build was relegated to government structures and private buildings where the company had the finances to make a grand statement. If stone was used in residential building it was for decorative purposes. However, because of its weight it was difficult to use as a veneer.
Faux Stone
Imitation-stone facings, also called "faux stone" or stone veneers, have brought the beauty of natural stone back into the spotlight. Made from a lightweight cement casting these facings can be used both on the exterior and interior of a home, especially for fireplaces, at a fraction of the cost of using real stone. The choices and colors are almost endless, and installing this product is not difficult for someone with some do-it-yourself skills.
The Installation of Stone Veneer
There are two types of stone veneer installation: ½" mortar joints and dry-stacked. Mortar joints are used with the larger pieces where the homeowner wants to recreate the look of water-washed stones, a rock-faced building, limestone or a traditional fireplace look. The dry-stacked look can also be mortared but because it does not need the mortar joints it is easier to install. Some of these products even have an imitation mortar joint that mimics a mortared-stone wall without the extra labor costs associated with mortar.
1. Planning and Estimating
Like every type of construction job installing stone veneer takes planning and a certain amount of estimating skills. Having too little material on site can tie up a job until new product can be ordered while having too much can result in extra cost that may or may not be recouped by returning it to the store. Most supply businesses will charge 25% or more for a restocking fee.
- Calculate surface area: height multiplied by the width.
- Subtract area of doors, windows, fireplace area, etc.
- Measure the corners in linear feet. In most cases 1 linear foot of corner covers ¾ of a square foot of surface rock so this can be subtracted from the total surface rock area.
- Trimstone: For windows, doors or other decorations a trimstone may be desired to add a border. Calculate this and subtract this number from the total.
2. Tools
In most cases everyday mortar tools will suffice for installing stone veneer:
- hock and trowel
- mason's trowel
- margin trowel
- brick hammer
- level
- staple gun (for tar felt installation)
- ceramic nippers
- whisk broom
- wheel barrow or large bucket for mixing mortar
- shovel
- grout bag (This is for squeezing mortar between the stones)
- hand grinder with a diamond blade (For large jobs renting a ceramic wet-saw would also be a great idea.)
3. Materials
- Type "N" mortar compound
- mortar dye (if desired)
- tarred felt or weather barrier
- 2.5 pound expanded metal lathe
- scratch-coat rake
- ledge flashing
- water flashing (if exterior)
4. Surface Preparation
For any masonry or concrete structure the mortar can be applied directly to the surface without the addition of lathe. If installing stone veneer on a wooden wall a tarred felt or other weather barrier will have to be installed first to prevent moisture from getting in behind the product. The lath will be installed right over this material.
Tarred Felt: To reinforce the bottom of the installation a ledge flashing should be installed and leveled. The starting point will be a minimum of 4" above grade and 2" above pavement. The felt should be "double-lapped."
Expanded Metal Lath: Make sure that the grooved cups of the lathe are turned upwards before installing so that it will "cup" and hold the mortar. Attach with galvanized nails or staples and overlap 2".
Scratch Coat: This is the first layer of mortar that will be the holding compound for the mortar that secures the stone. This is pressed into the lathe to a depth of ½" and "scratched" with a scratch-coat rake.
5. Mortar
A standard mortar mix using Portland cement is advised. "Dry mix' the materials with the tinting agent (if desired) in a wheel barrow. Add water carefully and mix to the consistency of pancake batter. The mortar should stick to the trowel when held vertically.
6. Installation
Before beginning spread the rock pieces on the ground and sort for size and color. Start the job with corner pieces and place them in order, staggering them for color. Each piece will be longer on one side so alternate these lengths going up. Using the trowel coat the back of each piece and press into place leaving a ½" space for grout. Once these are in place fill in the spaces with the flat rock. The inside corners are staggered and the pieces cut to fit.
7. Mortar Grout
When the rocks are in place mix some more mortar in a bucket only make it a little more watery. Then scoop some of this out into the grout bag. Just like icing a cake squeeze the mortar into the joints and let sit until it is just dry enough to be scraped with the grout trowel. Do not wash the excess mortar off the rock as this will cause staining. Use the whisk broom to take it off.
Stone veneer can add thousands of dollars to the value of your home as well provide years of enjoyment and satisfaction. For great results consult a mason from our Contractor Directory or simply post your project online.
Posted by: kimSuggested Reading For You
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